By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_Denton]John Denton
When you purchase a set of boat plans, chances are good that it will include reduced-scale drawings of different views of the boat. Converting these reduced-scaled drawings, often referred to as lines plans, to full-size drawings is known as lofting a boat. The goal of lofting is to produce full-size templates for cutting the boat's lumber. Lofting a boat needs to be done with care since the full-scale plans must accurately portray the hull's curve and the overall shape of the boat.
Lofting a Boat is a Traditional Manual Process
Boat builders traditionally use a large and open space for lofting a boat. This allows the full-scale plans to be laid down free of obstruction. The term "mold loft" is used to describe this space. Professional shipbuilders often use a dedicated building with a wooden floor as a mold loft. The full-sized views of the boat are drawn on rosin paper that is attached to the floor. For small boats, large pieces of paper or plywood can serve as the mold loft.
Author Howard Chapelle, whose Boatbuilding has been a valuable boatbuilding resource for many years, defines the process of lofting a boat as the core of fine craftsmanship. Chapelle has found that time and labor can be saved by carefully lofting a boat. It's easier and faster to correct errors found in lines plans while lofting a boat instead of later during the construction phase of the project.
Lofting a Boat Hull
Boat plans that have scaled-down renderings include a table listing offset measurements that describe the full-size shape of the hull. The offsets are used to plot points on a grid. This plotting begins by establishing an accurate set of gridlines. The initial line of the grid, known as the baseline, is often created with a string as a guide to ensure straightness. Additional lines of the grid are then added and offset points from the table are plotted. The shape of the hull is created by connecting the points on the grid.
The lines of the hull and on many other parts of the point are curved. These lines are known as fair curves because they must have a smooth and continuous flow. Battens are used to create fair curves. A batten is a long strip of pliable wood that is gently bent around nails that have been inserted at offset points that have been plotted on the grid.
Lofting a boat usually involved three views of the boat: half-breadth, body and profile sheer. These views are interconnected. Using battens to draw fair curves through offset points if repeated in each of the three views. If a problem is found with a line in one view, it must be corrected if it appears in any of the other views.
Alternatives to Lofting a Boat
Some boat builders have abandoned the manual involved in lofting a boat in favor of using CAD (computer-aided design) to obtain accurate full-size boat plans. Another alternative to lofting is buying boat plans with full-size drawings. An increasing number of designs for smaller boats are available with full-size plans, but there are still far more reduced-scale designs on the market. Builders who decide they will only buy boat plans with full-size drawings may find their design options limited.
Want to learn more about [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com/boat-lofting/]boat lofting? Visit my website at [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com]diyboatingsecrets for helpful tips and information on building and maintaining you own boat.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Continued-Education-on-Boat-Lofting&id=6638051] Continued Education on Boat Lofting
Wednesday, December 28, 2011
Monday, December 26, 2011
I Love My Boat But I Can Not Get the Sails Up
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Daniel_R_Sprague]Daniel R Sprague
The boat is an 18' gaff rigged schooner day sailor with a 4' dagger board for stability. Even with the dagger board down, she is still a tipsy craft. Getting the jib and the fore and aft gaff rigged sails up while tied to a dock is challenging and a two person job. Trying to do it gracefully while untethered is a 3 person job and is most entertaining to those watching. The main and fore sails have two halyard lines each [the lines or ropes that lift the sail] and a topping lift to hold the end of the boom up so the other two lines do not have to lift that along with the sail. The two halyards need to go up at slightly different rates if everything is to go smoothly, and each are tied off separately to get the best sail set. Once the two sails are up, the jib goes up. It would much rather drop into the water and act as a sea anchor then go up. Little room and nothing good to hold onto is the jib challenge.
When I built the boat, I wanted to make everything as traditional as possible, to give it the old time classic traditional look. I was on a very thin budget so I made everything I could. I made almost all my rigging tackle, which were dead-eyes, a few pulley blocks, and wooden cleats. They looked classy and they worked.
The kiss method of rigging is to" keep it simple stupid". I started with a simple Bahamian lace to attach the sail to the mast. One long lace goes through the sail grommets, around the mast through the next grommet, around the mast, and so on lacing the sail to the mast. One of the two halyards is attached to the top of the sail next to the mast and let you pull the sail up. The lace needs to be loose enough to let you pull the sail up. Good, but the lace sometimes cinches the sail and it self to the mast and will not go up.
The next thought was mast hoops. I tried making them from different types of rope, splicing the ends together. None worked well. They all bound as they went up, but better than the lace. I had no luck making wood hoops. Next were barrel beads. These beads are shaped like little barrels strung together to make the hoop. The hoops are attached to the sail at the grommets. The hoops rolled up the mast on the beads when the sail is pulled up. A quick note about the shape of a gaff rigged sail. Its shape adds to the problem on getting it up.
A gaff sail has four sides. The bottom of the sail is the longest, and is attached to a boom that lets the sail keeps its shape at the bottom. The front of the sail is attached to the mast giving the sail a leading edge. The top of the sail is the shortest and has a boom on it to keep its shape. This is the gaff boom. The back of the sail is longer than the mast side of the sail. This configuration lets the boat have a bigger sail with a shorter mast. The gaff boom holds up the top of the sail so that it can be higher than the mast.
The barrel bead mast hoops made a great improvement on lifting the sails. This was much better, but now I found that the forks or jaws of the gaff boom would bind if the boom was not kept horizontal. It was back to the drawing board. After changing the shape of the forks to give less drag and putting rollers at the inside of the jaws or forks, the gaff boom would roll up with much less effort. Better but now I found that the dead eyes (a dead eye is just a hole through a block of wood the rope slides through) the halyards went through at the top of the mast had way too much friction to let the sails go up as easy as they should.
On a gaff rig one halyard pulls the top of the sail next to the mast up and the other halyard is attached to the gaff boom at the top of the sail and keeps the boom horizontal so it will go up at the same time as the top of the sail next to the mast. Both need to be pulled up at the same time, but both do not go up at the same rate. Once the sail is up the gaff boom is adjusted to give a good sail set for the wind you have.
I made wood pulley blocks for the top of the mast tops. They look sharp, a little clunky, but they work. I can now get the sails up with much less effort and frustration. It still takes two to get them up. Now if the wind is right we put the sails up and sail away from the dock. If the wind is not with us, we motor out to open water, drop and set a anchor, attach a buoy, attach the bow of the boat and put up the sails. Then sail off from the buoy. On the way back we tie back up to our buoy, drop the sails and then pull up our buoy and anchor and motor back to the dock ( in proper Bristol fashion).
Dan Sprague http://www.digitalcompassshop.com is devoted to helping boaters find digital compass equipment that meets their needs. An electronic compass can stand alone or work with other navigational equipment for increased boating safety. Visit today to see our great deals.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?I-Love-My-Boat-But-I-Can-Not-Get-the-Sails-Up&id=6625065] I Love My Boat But I Can Not Get the Sails Up
The boat is an 18' gaff rigged schooner day sailor with a 4' dagger board for stability. Even with the dagger board down, she is still a tipsy craft. Getting the jib and the fore and aft gaff rigged sails up while tied to a dock is challenging and a two person job. Trying to do it gracefully while untethered is a 3 person job and is most entertaining to those watching. The main and fore sails have two halyard lines each [the lines or ropes that lift the sail] and a topping lift to hold the end of the boom up so the other two lines do not have to lift that along with the sail. The two halyards need to go up at slightly different rates if everything is to go smoothly, and each are tied off separately to get the best sail set. Once the two sails are up, the jib goes up. It would much rather drop into the water and act as a sea anchor then go up. Little room and nothing good to hold onto is the jib challenge.
When I built the boat, I wanted to make everything as traditional as possible, to give it the old time classic traditional look. I was on a very thin budget so I made everything I could. I made almost all my rigging tackle, which were dead-eyes, a few pulley blocks, and wooden cleats. They looked classy and they worked.
The kiss method of rigging is to" keep it simple stupid". I started with a simple Bahamian lace to attach the sail to the mast. One long lace goes through the sail grommets, around the mast through the next grommet, around the mast, and so on lacing the sail to the mast. One of the two halyards is attached to the top of the sail next to the mast and let you pull the sail up. The lace needs to be loose enough to let you pull the sail up. Good, but the lace sometimes cinches the sail and it self to the mast and will not go up.
The next thought was mast hoops. I tried making them from different types of rope, splicing the ends together. None worked well. They all bound as they went up, but better than the lace. I had no luck making wood hoops. Next were barrel beads. These beads are shaped like little barrels strung together to make the hoop. The hoops are attached to the sail at the grommets. The hoops rolled up the mast on the beads when the sail is pulled up. A quick note about the shape of a gaff rigged sail. Its shape adds to the problem on getting it up.
A gaff sail has four sides. The bottom of the sail is the longest, and is attached to a boom that lets the sail keeps its shape at the bottom. The front of the sail is attached to the mast giving the sail a leading edge. The top of the sail is the shortest and has a boom on it to keep its shape. This is the gaff boom. The back of the sail is longer than the mast side of the sail. This configuration lets the boat have a bigger sail with a shorter mast. The gaff boom holds up the top of the sail so that it can be higher than the mast.
The barrel bead mast hoops made a great improvement on lifting the sails. This was much better, but now I found that the forks or jaws of the gaff boom would bind if the boom was not kept horizontal. It was back to the drawing board. After changing the shape of the forks to give less drag and putting rollers at the inside of the jaws or forks, the gaff boom would roll up with much less effort. Better but now I found that the dead eyes (a dead eye is just a hole through a block of wood the rope slides through) the halyards went through at the top of the mast had way too much friction to let the sails go up as easy as they should.
On a gaff rig one halyard pulls the top of the sail next to the mast up and the other halyard is attached to the gaff boom at the top of the sail and keeps the boom horizontal so it will go up at the same time as the top of the sail next to the mast. Both need to be pulled up at the same time, but both do not go up at the same rate. Once the sail is up the gaff boom is adjusted to give a good sail set for the wind you have.
I made wood pulley blocks for the top of the mast tops. They look sharp, a little clunky, but they work. I can now get the sails up with much less effort and frustration. It still takes two to get them up. Now if the wind is right we put the sails up and sail away from the dock. If the wind is not with us, we motor out to open water, drop and set a anchor, attach a buoy, attach the bow of the boat and put up the sails. Then sail off from the buoy. On the way back we tie back up to our buoy, drop the sails and then pull up our buoy and anchor and motor back to the dock ( in proper Bristol fashion).
Dan Sprague http://www.digitalcompassshop.com is devoted to helping boaters find digital compass equipment that meets their needs. An electronic compass can stand alone or work with other navigational equipment for increased boating safety. Visit today to see our great deals.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?I-Love-My-Boat-But-I-Can-Not-Get-the-Sails-Up&id=6625065] I Love My Boat But I Can Not Get the Sails Up
Saturday, December 24, 2011
Boat Lofting and It's Importance
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_Denton]John Denton
A good number of boat plan include scaled-down representations of different views of the boat. These are referred to as "lines plans." The term "boat lofting" refers to the process of converting lines plans into full-size boat drawings. The boat lofting process is needed to produce full-size templates that are used to cut timber for the boat.
Importance of the Boat Lofting Process
One of the most important aspects of boat lofting is accurately depicting the curves of the hull. Another important aspect of the process is identifying and correcting possible errors in the original lines plans. Errors are not common, but when they occur they can have a serious impact on boat construction.
According to Howard Chapelle, recognized boatbuilding expert and author of the classic book Boatbuilding, precise boat lofting lays the groundwork for a well-built boat. Chapelle stresses in his book that lofting lines plans to full scale can eliminate a lot of trial and error during construction of a boat. It is much easier to correct errors during lofting, save time and effort during construction.
Boat Lofting Overview
The boat lofting process requires a large open space for laying out the plans. This space is commonly referred to as a "mold loft." Boatyards traditionally dedicate an entire building with a wooden floor to serve as a mold loft. Full-scale drawings are created on red rosin paper that is laid out on the floor. For hobbyists building smaller boats, a boat-size piece of paper or plywood can be used in place of a mold loft.
A table of offset measurements is provided with boat plans that require lofting. These measurements are used to plot the final shape of the hull. The first step in plotting the hull is to establish an accurate grid for offset plotting. The first line in the grid, which is often referred to as the baseline, can be laid down using a string to ensure straightness. After the remaining lines of the grid have been established and the offsets plotted, the outline of the hull can be formed by connecting the plotted points.
Curved lines in boat plans must be created with a continuous smooth flow. These curves are referred to as fair curves. Long strips of wood known as battens are gently bend around nails that have been inserted at offset points on lofting gridlines in order to create the shape of the boat's fair curves.
A boat loft will typically include three views: Body, profile sheet and half-breadth. Using battens to draw fair curves along offset points is repeated in each of the three views. The views are interdependent in that changing a line in one view will require related changes in the other views.
Alternatives to Boat Lofting
The boat lofting process has traditionally been completed manually. Thanks to computers, some boat builders are able to skip the lofting process and generate accurate full-size boat plans using computer-aided design (CAD). Other builders decide to purchase boat plans in a full-size format, an increasingly popular option for small boats. However, there is a wider variety of boat designs in scaled-down format and builders who shop for only full-size plans may find their design choices limited.
Want to learn more about [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com/boat-lofting/]boat lofting? Visit my website at [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com]diyboatingsecrets for helpful tips and information on building and maintaining you own boat.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Boat-Lofting-and-Its-Importance&id=6629957] Boat Lofting and It's Importance
A good number of boat plan include scaled-down representations of different views of the boat. These are referred to as "lines plans." The term "boat lofting" refers to the process of converting lines plans into full-size boat drawings. The boat lofting process is needed to produce full-size templates that are used to cut timber for the boat.
Importance of the Boat Lofting Process
One of the most important aspects of boat lofting is accurately depicting the curves of the hull. Another important aspect of the process is identifying and correcting possible errors in the original lines plans. Errors are not common, but when they occur they can have a serious impact on boat construction.
According to Howard Chapelle, recognized boatbuilding expert and author of the classic book Boatbuilding, precise boat lofting lays the groundwork for a well-built boat. Chapelle stresses in his book that lofting lines plans to full scale can eliminate a lot of trial and error during construction of a boat. It is much easier to correct errors during lofting, save time and effort during construction.
Boat Lofting Overview
The boat lofting process requires a large open space for laying out the plans. This space is commonly referred to as a "mold loft." Boatyards traditionally dedicate an entire building with a wooden floor to serve as a mold loft. Full-scale drawings are created on red rosin paper that is laid out on the floor. For hobbyists building smaller boats, a boat-size piece of paper or plywood can be used in place of a mold loft.
A table of offset measurements is provided with boat plans that require lofting. These measurements are used to plot the final shape of the hull. The first step in plotting the hull is to establish an accurate grid for offset plotting. The first line in the grid, which is often referred to as the baseline, can be laid down using a string to ensure straightness. After the remaining lines of the grid have been established and the offsets plotted, the outline of the hull can be formed by connecting the plotted points.
Curved lines in boat plans must be created with a continuous smooth flow. These curves are referred to as fair curves. Long strips of wood known as battens are gently bend around nails that have been inserted at offset points on lofting gridlines in order to create the shape of the boat's fair curves.
A boat loft will typically include three views: Body, profile sheet and half-breadth. Using battens to draw fair curves along offset points is repeated in each of the three views. The views are interdependent in that changing a line in one view will require related changes in the other views.
Alternatives to Boat Lofting
The boat lofting process has traditionally been completed manually. Thanks to computers, some boat builders are able to skip the lofting process and generate accurate full-size boat plans using computer-aided design (CAD). Other builders decide to purchase boat plans in a full-size format, an increasingly popular option for small boats. However, there is a wider variety of boat designs in scaled-down format and builders who shop for only full-size plans may find their design choices limited.
Want to learn more about [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com/boat-lofting/]boat lofting? Visit my website at [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com]diyboatingsecrets for helpful tips and information on building and maintaining you own boat.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Boat-Lofting-and-Its-Importance&id=6629957] Boat Lofting and It's Importance
Thursday, December 22, 2011
The Proper Steps to Varnishing a Boat
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=John_Denton]John Denton
Learning how to varnish a boat is one of the best ways to protect a wooden boat while highlighting the beauty of the wood. Cedar, mahogany and pine are woods that are suitable for a varnish finish. Teak, which is often treated with oil, is also suitable for varnish.
Paint is more durable for finishing a boat, but many boat builders prefer the gloss of varnish for creating a spectacular finish for their boat. A nice compromise between beauty and durability is to varnish interior surfaces and apply paint to the boat's exterior hull.
Here are some tips on how to varnish a boat:
� Prepare the surface. Adequate surface preparation is the key to a beautiful varnish finish. Lightly sand the surface using fine sandpaper until it is perfectly smooth. Always move the sandpaper in the same direction as the grain of the wood.
� Clean the surface. After sanding, use a tack cloth to clean the surface. Many boat builders also vacuum the surface to remove all traces of wood dust and dirt. To keep the surface clean, never apply boat varnish on windy days.
� Use the correct varnish. Marine varnish is different from household varnish because it must adapt to the boat's wood as it expands in extreme weather. Never use household varnish on a boat! Look for boat varnishes come with a UV inhibitor that will protect the boat from damage from the sun's ultraviolet rays. Some types of boat varnish include a sealer that's used as a primer before varnishing. Use this type of varnish when finishing oily wood like teak.
� Use the best brush. Soft badger brushes are among the most popular for boat varnishing. Avoid cheap synthetic brushes when learning how to varnish a boat since they can introduce bubbles. Brushes should be cleaned after the application of each coat and should be stored in a clean location when not in use.
� Use the proper technique. Always apply varnish in a well-lighted area so that gaps in the varnish are visible. To avoid air bubbles on the surface of the boat, marine varnish should never be stirred or shaken. The varnish should be applied to the surface using as few strokes as possible, always moving the brush smoothly and in the same direction. While learning how to varnish a boat, avoid applying heavy layers since this can introduce drips and sags in the surface. After the varnish has dried, if drips are visible they can be sanded down and covered by another layer of varnish.
� Apply multiple layers. A high-gloss finish is traditionally created by building up layers of varnish. The first coat of varnish should be diluted with thinner so that it will bond with the wooden surface. At least four full-strength layers should then be applied. When each layer dries it should be sanded before the next layer is applied. Novice boat builders who haven't learned how to varnish a boat are often tempted to apply a full-strength base coat to save time, but this can compromise the bonding of the varnish.
Once your varnish finish is complete, protect it by washing varnished surfaces regularly. This is especially important for boats that are used in the ocean since seawater evaporation can leave a salt residue. When varnish shows the effects of time, water and weather, it can be refreshed by sanding down and reapplying the top layer.
Want to learn more about [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com/boat-varnish/]boat varnish? Visit my website at [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com]diyboatingsecrets for helpful tips and information on building and maintaining you own boat.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Proper-Steps-to-Varnishing-a-Boat&id=6642798] The Proper Steps to Varnishing a Boat
Learning how to varnish a boat is one of the best ways to protect a wooden boat while highlighting the beauty of the wood. Cedar, mahogany and pine are woods that are suitable for a varnish finish. Teak, which is often treated with oil, is also suitable for varnish.
Paint is more durable for finishing a boat, but many boat builders prefer the gloss of varnish for creating a spectacular finish for their boat. A nice compromise between beauty and durability is to varnish interior surfaces and apply paint to the boat's exterior hull.
Here are some tips on how to varnish a boat:
� Prepare the surface. Adequate surface preparation is the key to a beautiful varnish finish. Lightly sand the surface using fine sandpaper until it is perfectly smooth. Always move the sandpaper in the same direction as the grain of the wood.
� Clean the surface. After sanding, use a tack cloth to clean the surface. Many boat builders also vacuum the surface to remove all traces of wood dust and dirt. To keep the surface clean, never apply boat varnish on windy days.
� Use the correct varnish. Marine varnish is different from household varnish because it must adapt to the boat's wood as it expands in extreme weather. Never use household varnish on a boat! Look for boat varnishes come with a UV inhibitor that will protect the boat from damage from the sun's ultraviolet rays. Some types of boat varnish include a sealer that's used as a primer before varnishing. Use this type of varnish when finishing oily wood like teak.
� Use the best brush. Soft badger brushes are among the most popular for boat varnishing. Avoid cheap synthetic brushes when learning how to varnish a boat since they can introduce bubbles. Brushes should be cleaned after the application of each coat and should be stored in a clean location when not in use.
� Use the proper technique. Always apply varnish in a well-lighted area so that gaps in the varnish are visible. To avoid air bubbles on the surface of the boat, marine varnish should never be stirred or shaken. The varnish should be applied to the surface using as few strokes as possible, always moving the brush smoothly and in the same direction. While learning how to varnish a boat, avoid applying heavy layers since this can introduce drips and sags in the surface. After the varnish has dried, if drips are visible they can be sanded down and covered by another layer of varnish.
� Apply multiple layers. A high-gloss finish is traditionally created by building up layers of varnish. The first coat of varnish should be diluted with thinner so that it will bond with the wooden surface. At least four full-strength layers should then be applied. When each layer dries it should be sanded before the next layer is applied. Novice boat builders who haven't learned how to varnish a boat are often tempted to apply a full-strength base coat to save time, but this can compromise the bonding of the varnish.
Once your varnish finish is complete, protect it by washing varnished surfaces regularly. This is especially important for boats that are used in the ocean since seawater evaporation can leave a salt residue. When varnish shows the effects of time, water and weather, it can be refreshed by sanding down and reapplying the top layer.
Want to learn more about [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com/boat-varnish/]boat varnish? Visit my website at [http://www.diyboatingsecrets.com]diyboatingsecrets for helpful tips and information on building and maintaining you own boat.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?The-Proper-Steps-to-Varnishing-a-Boat&id=6642798] The Proper Steps to Varnishing a Boat
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Do I Need a CO Detector on My Boat?
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=William_L._Gills]William L. Gills
Jim Hart and his wife Judy took their three sisters out for a boating overnighter. They watched a movie with the generator running to power their air conditioning one hot evening in late July, then went to bed. At 2:00 a.m. Jim awoke and slid off the berth to get a glass of water. When his feet his the deck his legs buckled at the knees and he nearly collapsed. He felt like he was wearing heavy leg armor as he stumbled and lurched against the bulkhead that led to the galley. He felt dizzy and disoriented, suddenly sick to his stomach. Something was terribly wrong, but what? At least he had the presence of mind to wake up his groggy passengers and crew. Grappling with his cell phone he dialed 911. The local fire department responded immediately to his call. When they arrived within the half hour in a fire and rescue boat they found Jim, Judy and the sisters dizzy, confused and ill. They were rushed to the nearest hospital to be treated for CO (carbon monoxide) poisoning.
How does this happen? What causes what seems to be so innocuous to the senses to be so life threatening? You're being poisoned by CO, but you don't know it. You can't smell it, you can't see it, you can't taste it. It takes on the specter of the macabre as it slowly, progressively overcomes your being.
If you're awake, you could pass out without warning, but usually the process is a slow one. The first sign is usually a headache often with nausea, feeling much like the flu without the fever. As time goes on you'll feel drowsy for no apparent reason with accompanying lethargy, later breathless on exertion, with chest pain as the heart is starved for oxygen. Low cardiac output will leave you less capable of clear thinking interfering with your usual response to danger; escape. With continued exposure the outcomes are often convulsions, coma, brain damage and finally, death.
So what causes this lack of oxygen medically known as hypoxia? CO is generated by the normal operation of any fuel-burning appliance or engine aboard a boat, including and commonly generators. If poorly maintained and/or malfunctioning or if not vented properly you run the risk of being a victim.
You've probably heard of hemoglobin. Hemoglobin is a substance in the blood that carries oxygen from the lungs to every cell in the body. It's needed so we have energy for growth, repair, movement and nerve conduction, all fundamental functions of life itself. When CO is present, it replaces precious oxygen in our blood causing a slow, but sure suffocation and destruction of tissue; a strangulation of life processes in the most insidious way.
You don't need to be sleeping to be overcome by CO. In fact, there are more deaths in open air exposure when people are awake than in a confined space like a cabin, places like open cockpits or even swim platforms. You learn in safe boating courses about the so called "station wagon effect" where gasses can be trapped and funneled back into the boat caused by a reverse air flow around the transom. This heavy concentration of gas is further exacerbated by fiberglass swim platforms where exhaust fumes containing CO can be trapped in concentrated amounts only to flow into enclosed cockpits where it can accumulate to extreme toxic levels. Even a boat underway can pose problems at slow speeds, especially with a tail wind.
What can you do to be sure you're not being exposed to the deadly gas? Well, the obvious answer is to get a CO detector, right? That's what I did. But, I assumed they were all made the same and would work equally well if they met minimum safety standards as noted on the package, so I bought two of the least expensive ones I could find at a local hardware store and installed them on my boat; one in the cabin and one in the cockpit. The problem was, they kept sounding off at the slightest provocation; loud, ear- piercing tones designed to wake you out of a deep REM sleep. I couldn't tolerate the excessive interruption and the attention they required, so I disarmed them to maintain sanity and keep my ears from ringing.
Further exploratory research taught me there are CO detectors designed specifically for boats. They're referred to as marine CO detectors and they work differently than the residential detectors I had purchased. What I learned is that CO levels in the home are typically very low. When they rise perhaps due to a faulty stove, heater or furnace, occupants need to be alerted right away. In a boat, you certainly don't want to be warned every time an engine starts or runs at idle for a short period of time. Marine CO detectors are designed to sound only when CO levels have remained high for a longer period of time, not every time spikes in CO are detected. They're also designed to withstand harsher marine conditions.
I now have two new marine CO detectors in strategic locations on my boat. Sure they cost a bit more, but what's the price of lost life and the peace of mind they bring. As boaters, we're around fuel burning engines and appliances quite often. To me, they're a line of defense against a wily foe; an early warning system that shouts - beware of the deadly gas lurking in the shadows.
BOATING, whether in a sailboat, fishing boat, cruiser or ski boat means something different to each boat owner. Boats get us to our favorite fishing spots, pull water skiers, take us to destinations across the water. But more than that, there's a common thread that binds us together as boaters. Is it community, common interest, common calling? Is it passion for something inexplicable? This site contains articles, videos and blogs which explore that passion of our favorite pastime.
Blogsite: http://wgills502.blogspot.com
Website: http://www.lubberslog.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Do-I-Need-a-CO-Detector-on-My-Boat?&id=6640241] Do I Need a CO Detector on My Boat?
Jim Hart and his wife Judy took their three sisters out for a boating overnighter. They watched a movie with the generator running to power their air conditioning one hot evening in late July, then went to bed. At 2:00 a.m. Jim awoke and slid off the berth to get a glass of water. When his feet his the deck his legs buckled at the knees and he nearly collapsed. He felt like he was wearing heavy leg armor as he stumbled and lurched against the bulkhead that led to the galley. He felt dizzy and disoriented, suddenly sick to his stomach. Something was terribly wrong, but what? At least he had the presence of mind to wake up his groggy passengers and crew. Grappling with his cell phone he dialed 911. The local fire department responded immediately to his call. When they arrived within the half hour in a fire and rescue boat they found Jim, Judy and the sisters dizzy, confused and ill. They were rushed to the nearest hospital to be treated for CO (carbon monoxide) poisoning.
How does this happen? What causes what seems to be so innocuous to the senses to be so life threatening? You're being poisoned by CO, but you don't know it. You can't smell it, you can't see it, you can't taste it. It takes on the specter of the macabre as it slowly, progressively overcomes your being.
If you're awake, you could pass out without warning, but usually the process is a slow one. The first sign is usually a headache often with nausea, feeling much like the flu without the fever. As time goes on you'll feel drowsy for no apparent reason with accompanying lethargy, later breathless on exertion, with chest pain as the heart is starved for oxygen. Low cardiac output will leave you less capable of clear thinking interfering with your usual response to danger; escape. With continued exposure the outcomes are often convulsions, coma, brain damage and finally, death.
So what causes this lack of oxygen medically known as hypoxia? CO is generated by the normal operation of any fuel-burning appliance or engine aboard a boat, including and commonly generators. If poorly maintained and/or malfunctioning or if not vented properly you run the risk of being a victim.
You've probably heard of hemoglobin. Hemoglobin is a substance in the blood that carries oxygen from the lungs to every cell in the body. It's needed so we have energy for growth, repair, movement and nerve conduction, all fundamental functions of life itself. When CO is present, it replaces precious oxygen in our blood causing a slow, but sure suffocation and destruction of tissue; a strangulation of life processes in the most insidious way.
You don't need to be sleeping to be overcome by CO. In fact, there are more deaths in open air exposure when people are awake than in a confined space like a cabin, places like open cockpits or even swim platforms. You learn in safe boating courses about the so called "station wagon effect" where gasses can be trapped and funneled back into the boat caused by a reverse air flow around the transom. This heavy concentration of gas is further exacerbated by fiberglass swim platforms where exhaust fumes containing CO can be trapped in concentrated amounts only to flow into enclosed cockpits where it can accumulate to extreme toxic levels. Even a boat underway can pose problems at slow speeds, especially with a tail wind.
What can you do to be sure you're not being exposed to the deadly gas? Well, the obvious answer is to get a CO detector, right? That's what I did. But, I assumed they were all made the same and would work equally well if they met minimum safety standards as noted on the package, so I bought two of the least expensive ones I could find at a local hardware store and installed them on my boat; one in the cabin and one in the cockpit. The problem was, they kept sounding off at the slightest provocation; loud, ear- piercing tones designed to wake you out of a deep REM sleep. I couldn't tolerate the excessive interruption and the attention they required, so I disarmed them to maintain sanity and keep my ears from ringing.
Further exploratory research taught me there are CO detectors designed specifically for boats. They're referred to as marine CO detectors and they work differently than the residential detectors I had purchased. What I learned is that CO levels in the home are typically very low. When they rise perhaps due to a faulty stove, heater or furnace, occupants need to be alerted right away. In a boat, you certainly don't want to be warned every time an engine starts or runs at idle for a short period of time. Marine CO detectors are designed to sound only when CO levels have remained high for a longer period of time, not every time spikes in CO are detected. They're also designed to withstand harsher marine conditions.
I now have two new marine CO detectors in strategic locations on my boat. Sure they cost a bit more, but what's the price of lost life and the peace of mind they bring. As boaters, we're around fuel burning engines and appliances quite often. To me, they're a line of defense against a wily foe; an early warning system that shouts - beware of the deadly gas lurking in the shadows.
BOATING, whether in a sailboat, fishing boat, cruiser or ski boat means something different to each boat owner. Boats get us to our favorite fishing spots, pull water skiers, take us to destinations across the water. But more than that, there's a common thread that binds us together as boaters. Is it community, common interest, common calling? Is it passion for something inexplicable? This site contains articles, videos and blogs which explore that passion of our favorite pastime.
Blogsite: http://wgills502.blogspot.com
Website: http://www.lubberslog.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Do-I-Need-a-CO-Detector-on-My-Boat?&id=6640241] Do I Need a CO Detector on My Boat?
Sunday, December 18, 2011
A Guide to Sea Kayaking
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Patrick_Cumiskey]Patrick Cumiskey
Sea Kayaking is a new style of kayaking which allows people to explore further afield over a certain stretch of the sea. You will be able to explore parts of the sea that other styles of boats and vessels cannot reach. Typically you can paddle around the coastline; however, you may also want to explore estuaries and bays that are unreachable by lager boats. There are differences between the traditional kayaks that you can use on rivers and those which are used in the sea.
Many people believe that sea kayaking is a new sport; however, the Eskimos have been using this technique of transportation for centuries. For over 4000 years, the people of the Arctic region have been using kayaks to glide over the water. The kayaks allowed the Eskimos to hunt for food and travel from one area to the next. The original sea kayak was a primitive design; however, it was incredibly effective.
The sport of is now huge all over the world and is considered an Olympic event. Many people use the sea kayak to circumnavigate around the world, and although this is extreme more people are attempting this challenge. Before starting out in this extreme sport, you will need to fully understand how the kayak works, they have to be far more robust and durable to withstand the harsh sea.
The style and design of kayaks are typically larger than other models, enabling people to store items for transportation. The design of the sea kayak enables them to be paddled in straight lines, with more efficiency. Although they are harder to turn quickly, they are not typically designed for speed, but endurance. Before you are allowed to go out sea kayaking, you will need to perform a series of safety checks, and procedures to ensure that you are capable of coping at sea.
Even if, you have kayaked in the past, you have to appreciate that sea kayaking is far more dangerous and will need you to be more alert. Depending on where you want to kayak, and how long you want to be out on the water, will depend on the safety training that you need to go through. You will need to prove that you are capable and confident of controlling the kayak.
The only equipment that is needed for is waterproofs; life jacket and the sea kayak and paddle. If you are planning a longer excursion, you will need other supplies such as warm clothing, food, water and the necessary equipment to cope for a longer period. There are many great tour guides and excursions that you can be part of until you feel experienced sea kayaking on your own.
This style of sport is fantastic for adventurous people who like a challenge, and want to explore the coastline. If you have the time and expertise, you can go sea kayaking often; therefore, purchasing your own equipment is advised. However, if you only want to experience the thrill once in a while hiring the equipment may be better.
Patrick Cumiskey is a contributor to the new [http://www.activitycentre.ie]activity centre magasine style website, and also the chief instructor at [http://www.kravmagaireland.com]Krav Maga Dublin.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?A-Guide-to-Sea-Kayaking&id=6646816] A Guide to Sea Kayaking
Sea Kayaking is a new style of kayaking which allows people to explore further afield over a certain stretch of the sea. You will be able to explore parts of the sea that other styles of boats and vessels cannot reach. Typically you can paddle around the coastline; however, you may also want to explore estuaries and bays that are unreachable by lager boats. There are differences between the traditional kayaks that you can use on rivers and those which are used in the sea.
Many people believe that sea kayaking is a new sport; however, the Eskimos have been using this technique of transportation for centuries. For over 4000 years, the people of the Arctic region have been using kayaks to glide over the water. The kayaks allowed the Eskimos to hunt for food and travel from one area to the next. The original sea kayak was a primitive design; however, it was incredibly effective.
The sport of is now huge all over the world and is considered an Olympic event. Many people use the sea kayak to circumnavigate around the world, and although this is extreme more people are attempting this challenge. Before starting out in this extreme sport, you will need to fully understand how the kayak works, they have to be far more robust and durable to withstand the harsh sea.
The style and design of kayaks are typically larger than other models, enabling people to store items for transportation. The design of the sea kayak enables them to be paddled in straight lines, with more efficiency. Although they are harder to turn quickly, they are not typically designed for speed, but endurance. Before you are allowed to go out sea kayaking, you will need to perform a series of safety checks, and procedures to ensure that you are capable of coping at sea.
Even if, you have kayaked in the past, you have to appreciate that sea kayaking is far more dangerous and will need you to be more alert. Depending on where you want to kayak, and how long you want to be out on the water, will depend on the safety training that you need to go through. You will need to prove that you are capable and confident of controlling the kayak.
The only equipment that is needed for is waterproofs; life jacket and the sea kayak and paddle. If you are planning a longer excursion, you will need other supplies such as warm clothing, food, water and the necessary equipment to cope for a longer period. There are many great tour guides and excursions that you can be part of until you feel experienced sea kayaking on your own.
This style of sport is fantastic for adventurous people who like a challenge, and want to explore the coastline. If you have the time and expertise, you can go sea kayaking often; therefore, purchasing your own equipment is advised. However, if you only want to experience the thrill once in a while hiring the equipment may be better.
Patrick Cumiskey is a contributor to the new [http://www.activitycentre.ie]activity centre magasine style website, and also the chief instructor at [http://www.kravmagaireland.com]Krav Maga Dublin.
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?A-Guide-to-Sea-Kayaking&id=6646816] A Guide to Sea Kayaking
Friday, December 16, 2011
Tarps For Covering Boats or Yachts
By [http://ezinearticles.com/?expert=Robert_Page]Robert Page
A boat of any size is a big investment for most people. Boat owners looking for ways to protect their precious expenditure often turn to heavy duty tarps. These kinds of poly tarps will protect a boat from damaging ultraviolet rays, dirt, extreme weather, and pests. They can also help to secure a boat against theft. These tarps are heavy and difficult to manage so a thief would have quite a job getting them off in a hurry. Using a tarp can also save a boat owner from having to put their boat into winter storage. Of course in some extreme climates storage may be more advisable.
Lighter weight more inexpensive tarps will do to protect boats, but only in the summer when a boat is being used more often. The lighter weight tarps have the advantage of being easier to handle, so they are ideal when the boat is being taken out or occupied more often, and the tarp is being taken on and off. In winter the less expensive and less durable tarps will not do the job of protecting against the elements.
These heavy duty boat tarps commonly come in silver, white, green, or black. If the boats' seats are made of leather white is probably the best option because it is reflective and will protect the interior of the boat better than a darker color. With too much exposure to light leather will crack. Tarps that weigh between five and six ounces per square yard are ideal. They should also have eyelets spaced no more than 18 inches apart, which allow the tarp to be tied down more tightly. The eyelets of a standard tarp are spaced 36 inches apart. Tying the tarp down tightly is going to be key to helping to protect against the elements and unwanted furry visitors. These tarps can be purchased in different sizes and do not need to be custom fitted to the boat. This will save you money. The tarps can be secured with ropes or bungee cords fastened under the boat.
Another option which is a bit more expensive is a canvas tarp. Canvas is a bit heavier and harder to handle, so it would definitely be used only in the winter time or when a boat isn't getting much use. One major advantage to canvas is that it "breathes". In other words it allows air in and doesn't let dampness get trapped under the tarp which would contribute to decay.
Because of their durability, heavy duty poly tarps have a wide range of additional uses. They can be used to cover machinery, ponds, agriculture, construction, and landscaping. For the protection they offer they are worth the weight and investment.
Tarpaulins expert Robert Page has worked in the tarps industry for over twenty-five years.For more information about Heavy duty tarps go to http://www.tarpaflex.com/acatalog/tarps-canopy-shop.html for more information about Tarpaflex US LLC go to http://www.tarpaflex.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Tarps-For-Covering-Boats-or-Yachts&id=6640689] Tarps For Covering Boats or Yachts
A boat of any size is a big investment for most people. Boat owners looking for ways to protect their precious expenditure often turn to heavy duty tarps. These kinds of poly tarps will protect a boat from damaging ultraviolet rays, dirt, extreme weather, and pests. They can also help to secure a boat against theft. These tarps are heavy and difficult to manage so a thief would have quite a job getting them off in a hurry. Using a tarp can also save a boat owner from having to put their boat into winter storage. Of course in some extreme climates storage may be more advisable.
Lighter weight more inexpensive tarps will do to protect boats, but only in the summer when a boat is being used more often. The lighter weight tarps have the advantage of being easier to handle, so they are ideal when the boat is being taken out or occupied more often, and the tarp is being taken on and off. In winter the less expensive and less durable tarps will not do the job of protecting against the elements.
These heavy duty boat tarps commonly come in silver, white, green, or black. If the boats' seats are made of leather white is probably the best option because it is reflective and will protect the interior of the boat better than a darker color. With too much exposure to light leather will crack. Tarps that weigh between five and six ounces per square yard are ideal. They should also have eyelets spaced no more than 18 inches apart, which allow the tarp to be tied down more tightly. The eyelets of a standard tarp are spaced 36 inches apart. Tying the tarp down tightly is going to be key to helping to protect against the elements and unwanted furry visitors. These tarps can be purchased in different sizes and do not need to be custom fitted to the boat. This will save you money. The tarps can be secured with ropes or bungee cords fastened under the boat.
Another option which is a bit more expensive is a canvas tarp. Canvas is a bit heavier and harder to handle, so it would definitely be used only in the winter time or when a boat isn't getting much use. One major advantage to canvas is that it "breathes". In other words it allows air in and doesn't let dampness get trapped under the tarp which would contribute to decay.
Because of their durability, heavy duty poly tarps have a wide range of additional uses. They can be used to cover machinery, ponds, agriculture, construction, and landscaping. For the protection they offer they are worth the weight and investment.
Tarpaulins expert Robert Page has worked in the tarps industry for over twenty-five years.For more information about Heavy duty tarps go to http://www.tarpaflex.com/acatalog/tarps-canopy-shop.html for more information about Tarpaflex US LLC go to http://www.tarpaflex.com
Article Source: [http://EzineArticles.com/?Tarps-For-Covering-Boats-or-Yachts&id=6640689] Tarps For Covering Boats or Yachts
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